21) For tractor versions, adjust fuselage sides to give
3 degrees of RIGHT side thrust and Epoxy the motor mounting disc in place. When set, add front lower floor 22 and shape to
the motor disc with a razor plane and sanding block; part of the triangle stock will just begin to show through during this
shaping; this is normal and intentional.
23) Notch the canopy floor 24 to fit snugly
into the gap between part 16s and trim to length. When happy with the fit, shape the edges so that it blends nicely into the
front deck 23. Test fit the canopy which should be trimmed to fit exactly on the length of part 24.
25) When the wing is ready, glue it squarely
and securely in place: there should be a 1/16" step down from 16s to the wing for parts 26. Add the wing gussets 25: being
3/16" thick they should be the exact same width as the leading edge. They attach to the sides of part 16s but 1/16" below
the top to allow fitting of the wing sweep fairings 27 later.
27) To finish off the upper surface, glue wing
sweep fairings 27 in place. When set these should be blended in to parts 16 and 26 using a little lightweight filler if necessary.
The diagonal edge above gusset 25 should be rounded off to a smooth leading-edge type curve.
29) Assemble the fin from all six parts marked
20. The crossgrain piece not only adds scale detail but helps to avoid warping of the large surface. If desired, mark as shown and cut out the rudder, then push the fin assembly down into centraliser 12 and on top of
fin support 13. Making sure that the fin is ABSOLUTELY vertical, glue it firmly in place.
22) Add the last two 2¾ -inch pieces of flat-edged
triangle stock along the upper edge of the fuselage sides behind former 10 with flat edges facing inwards, glue front deck
23 in place, and shape into motor disc. On tractor versions the 10mm collar can then be glued to the front of the motor disc
and blended in to the nose as shown here. Motor access for tractor version is through the gap in front of former 10.
24) Place the wing centrally in its seat, and mark the
inner aileron extents which are 5mm out from the sidepod edges. Put the wing on a flat building board and cut out the ailerons
which are 25mm wide, and originate 5mm inboard of the wingtip 4 joint (i.e. approx 400mm long).
26) As parts 15 are 1/16" higher than the
1/8" trailing edge and parts 16 are 1/16" higher than the 3/16" leading edge, there should be a 1/16" step front and back.
Trim to an exact fit and glue overwing fairings 26 in place, these should blend in perfectly with 15s at the rear and 16s
at the front. Use a little lightweight filler if necessary to get the desired union.
28) Don't forget to also glue the other two part 27s underneath
the wing! Once again the diagonal edge should be rounded off to provide a smooth curve, continuing right round gusset 25 and
into the top fairing 27.
30) Cut a 1/16th inch deep notch in
the inner edges of each aileron and elevator, and glue in place the 1/16" ply horns. The holes may need to be drilled out
slightly to accept the clevis pin. Control surfaces should not be permanently hinged until covering has been completed.