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Removable Wing Option
Order Form
Build Sequence Differences
Removable Wing Option
Slimy I.C. Powered Version
Undercarriage Option

As the WHIZZZA is quite a large model, you may find it easier to store and transport if the wing is removable. This is a very easy modification requiring the minimum of parts, and is fully described here.


You will need to insert two 3" (75mm) lengths of 1/4" (6mm) hardwood dowel into shallow grooves made in the rear of the wing. The dowels should end up exactly the correct distance apart to just clear the wingseat doublers part 5.


Insert a 1/16" (1.5mm) birch ply plate against former 7, and mark where the dowels will locate with it. Drill corresponding holes and gently elongate them until the wing slides easily but firmly into position. You may have to file small grooves to avoid fouling of the torque rods at full aileron extents.


Drill holes down the entire length of two 1/2" x 3/4" (12mm x 18mm) hardwood blocks about 1 inch (25mm) long. The captive nuts should be cut or filed to match the thickness of the blocks before being inserted as shown here. If you do not have any hardwood blocks, extremely hard grade balsa is just as good.


The blocks, containing the captive nuts, are glued into corresponding gaps cut into the wingseat doubler 2 inches (50mm) from the rear edge of front upper deck part 12, but 1/16" (1.5mm) below the wingseat surface. They should lean forward very slightly to align correctly with the profiled leading edge of the wing where the nylon wingbolts will go through. 


To avoid any distortion of the fuselage, a 3/4" (18mm) wide strip of 1/16" (1.5mm) birch ply is glued in place across the gap, after being drilled with corresponding holes as shown here.


Some nylon wingbolts are supplied with load spreding washers or stramilned mouldings as the ones used here. However you could just as easily use a ply load spreding plate or simply harden the surrounding area of balsa with some thin cyano. All such methods have been employed with total success.